
I'm not sure why one starts a blog. It is a good medium for an exhibitionistic introvert, so perhaps that's it for me. (Oooo--let's change my byline!) As to the reason it's a food blog, the answer will take a time to parse out, but will surely say that food is at the root of how I relate to the world and to myself.
Even as I started it, I didn't have a preconception of what kinds of things I might post. Yet I did look forward to what my first lobster entry would be. R. was born in the Maritimes. In the most urban of days, he still hears the call of the sea. Due to our several trips out each year, and as the trips have awaked the puddle of the primordial that resides in me, I now hear it too. And ocean, or at least our bit of it, means we'll have lobster for supper.
Here is this weekend's incarnation. I'm just back from my annual pilgrimage and lovefest in Nova Scotia: a long weekend of godkids and other objects of my affection. Tumbling ocean waves, lake, canoe, bonfire, guitar strains, sea shanties. We usually make lobster at the cottage, but this time a perfect day brought us to a Lobster Dinner--one of the great Maritime traditions, usually held in white clapboard Church Halls. It was everything it was meant to be, plus a pounded copper boiling pot all asteam, that had originated in the galley of an American ship captured by the Brits in 1813.
Lobster is often made all wrong. It's ruined by sauces, overcooking, wrongminded cooking. I don't think I'll give many out-and-out recipes in this space, but here's one that I hold sacred, and that I think anyone who has a chance of making lobster should learn by heart:
-Anyone who recommends steaming, either doesn't care for you or doesn't care for lobster.
-Visualise the pot you're choosing for boiling the lobsters. The biggest pot in the average well-equipped kitchen might accommodate four lobsters at a time, but many stockpots will only accommodate two. You want enough water to completely cover the lobster and surround them amply enough to be able to come back to the boil quickly after you've added them.
-If you're able to use sea water, do. It provides, perversely, the perfect level of salinity for their cooking. Otherwise use tap water, and add two handfuls of sea salt for the amount of water that will cook four lobsters.
-Bring the water up to a rolling boil. Add the lobsters head first, one at a time, choosing the largest one to go in first. Have the pot covered until the water has returned to a strong boil. Once it has, set timer for 12 mins for lobsters that weigh about 1 1/2 pounds each, (you count 10 mins. for the first pound per lobster, and 4 mins for each additional pound per lobster). Use the same water if you have more to boil.
-Serve with nothing, or with butter and lemon juice that have been boiled together for a few minutes to emulsify, and to sweeten the lemon a bit: the juice of two lemons per 1/2 pound of butter.